Mayurbhanj Futa Checks Cotton Shirt

A quiet check with a much deeper story.

Crafted in Mayurbhanj Futa Checks cotton, this shirt draws from a textile tradition closely associated with the Santal communities of Mayurbhanj, Odisha. Traditionally woven in cotton, Futa or Phuta textiles are recognised by their checked compositions and understated geometric character. Historical examples were made not merely as decorative cloth, but as garments embedded in everyday and ceremonial life.

For House of Roh, the traditional check is reworked into an easy contemporary shirt — breathable, tactile and distinctive without being loud. The relaxed construction allows the handloom character of the cotton to fall naturally on the body.

Fabric: Mayurbhanj Futa Checks Cotton
Origin: Mayurbhanj, Odisha, India
Tradition: Santal / Santali textile tradition
Character: Traditional checks with the subtle irregularities of handcrafted cloth
Feel: Breathable, lightweight and comfortable
Fit: Relaxed boxy fit with a straight silhouette and easy drape
Best for: Everyday dressing, travel, relaxed workwear, lunches, dinners and weekends

Small variations in the checks, weave and texture are characteristic of handcrafted textiles and make each piece individual.

The Story of Futa

The Futa tradition offers an interesting glimpse into the textile culture of Mayurbhanj. An archival 19th-century Futa saree, dated to 1800–1899, is documented as a white cotton textile with checks and motifs from Mudrajodi village in Mayurbhanj. It records the garment as something women wore to weddings as well as while visiting the mela or market — showing how the textile moved naturally between special occasions and everyday life.

Checks also have a strong association with traditional Santal dress in the region. Sources documenting Santali clothing describe Futa/Phuta checks in garments worn by both women and men, including traditional sarees and kacha or dhoti forms.

From the Weaving Community

The story is also one of revival. Parts of Mayurbhanj's traditional weaving knowledge had declined substantially over time. More recently, initiatives in the district have been working with tribal women to relearn weaving, operate community weaving centres and create new livelihoods around the craft. Women-led organisations such as Tanta Gatha describe their work as reviving Mayurbhanj's tribal weaving traditions while enabling women artisans to participate directly in the economic value created by the textile. 

Care Instructions

Gentle hand wash separately in cold water using a mild detergent. Do not soak for extended periods, particularly during the first few washes.

Avoid bleach and harsh detergents. Do not scrub, twist or wring the garment. Dry naturally in the shade to help preserve the colour and structure of the weave. Iron on low to medium heat, preferably on the reverse.

For the longest life, wash only when necessary and allow the shirt to air between wears.

How to Style It

Futa checks are graphic without being overpowering, so this is an especially versatile handloom shirt.

Pair it with ivory, stone or beige trousers for an easy daytime look. For evenings, wear it with navy, charcoal or black trousers and clean leather loafers. The relaxed boxy silhouette also works well untucked with straight-leg trousers, linen pants or tailored shorts.

For a more contemporary House of Roh look, wear it with slightly wider trousers and minimal footwear. Avoid introducing another strong check or print — allow the rhythm of the Futa weave to remain the focal point.

House of Roh styling principle: An old weave. An easy silhouette. Made for how we dress now.